The Perfect Pairing: Exploring Ukrainian Cuisine with Chef Yevhen Klopotenko
Ukraine, with its vast landscapes and rich cultural heritage, offers a distinct and varied culinary identity. While each of its oblasts (regions) boasts unique food traditions, some dishes have become beloved national treasures. Ukrainian chef, innovator, and culinary activist Yevhen Klopotenko is redefining these classics at his restaurant, located near the iconic Andriivska Church in Kyiv’s historic Podil district. By using locally sourced ingredients, Yevhen is not only reimagining traditional Ukrainian dishes but also preserving and celebrating the nation’s gastronomic heritage.
What pairs better with these iconic dishes than Ukrainian wines? From local and international grape varieties, a growing number of wineries—both newly founded and long-established—are producing exceptional wines that perfectly complement Yevhen’s modern take on traditional cuisine.
Let’s take a closer look at how Yevhen expertly pairs Ukrainian favorites with local wines.
Starter: Salted Dunaika (Danube Herring)
Tender salted dunaika, also known as Danube herring, is elevated with smoked carrot oil and confit potatoes. This dish balances the saltiness of the fish with a creamy, buttery sauce and sharp guslianka cheese. Topped with herring caviar and charred herb dust, the layers of texture and flavor beg for the freshness of a dry sparkling wine.
Paired with:
Bisser, Kolonist Winery, Bessarabia NV
This sparkling wine, crafted in the Blanc de Blancs style from 100% Chardonnay, reveals delicate floral aromas with hints of freshly baked brioche. On the palate, buttery notes and vibrant acidity make it the ideal companion to the salty richness of the herring.
Soup: Borshch
A dish found in every Ukrainian household, borshch is reimagined in Yevhen's kitchen. His version adds sweet plum jam to offset the sour beetroot, which is roasted in a wood-fired oven for a hint of smokiness. The depth and complexity of this hearty, meaty soup call for an equally robust wine to match its bold flavors.
Paired with:
Odesa Black, Villa Tinta, Odesa 2020
This standout red wine made from Odesa Black grapes offers an array of blackberries, blackcurrants, and white pepper on the nose. The palate bursts with dark fruits like plums and violets, while time spent in oak adds vanilla and a velvety finish. Its rich, multi-layered profile holds its own against the bold flavors of the borshch.
Main Course: Vereshchaka Ribs
In this dish, Yevhen combines two Ukrainian staples—pork ribs and kvass, a fermented drink made from beets, bread, and sourdough. The ribs are baked in a wood-fired oven, absorbing the smoky, sweet, and sour flavors of the kvass-based sauce. A fruity red wine complements these rich, smoky flavors.
Paired with:
Kara Kermen, The Historical Series, Beykush Winery, Mykolaiv 2018
This 50/50 blend of Saperavi and Tempranillo is made using the appassimento method and aged for over three years in American oak. The 2018 vintage offers wild berry notes with hints of smoke, leather, and truffle, making it the perfect match for the smoky sweetness of the ribs.
Dessert: Buckwheat Praline
Yevhen’s buckwheat praline dessert evokes the forests and fields of Ukraine with its nutty crunch, served alongside ripe cherries, fresh thyme, and fir tree oil. The layers of flavor in this dessert call for a complex, refreshing wine to balance its earthy sweetness.
Paired with:
Ice Wine, SHABO, Odesa 2021
This award-winning ice wine, made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, boasts a vibrant red color and a distinctive wild berry profile. Its refreshing acidity cuts through the richness of the praline, offering a balanced and harmonious pairing.
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From starters to dessert, Chef Yevhen Klopotenko’s modern interpretations of Ukrainian classics are beautifully paired with the country’s finest wines. Through these creative pairings, both the culinary and viticultural heritage of Ukraine are celebrated in a symphony of flavor and tradition.